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发表于 2012-4-6 17:12
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Indian trains?
I know they evoke images of overcrowding and frequent derailment; something that is etched firmly into our conscience, having been repeatedly bombarded with bad news over the years about India's beleaguered rail service.
But for now delete that mental picture. What we're talking about here is a different train, the Mahaparinirvan Express, a special tourist carrier that takes the pilgrims to various Buddhist holy sites in relative comfort.
For devout Buddhists, it is life's goal to visit holy sites such as where the Buddha was born, attained enlightenment, delivered his first sermon and left this world, marking the end of his samsara, the cycle of life and birth.
These sites, however, are located in poor, rural India and Nepal. A pilgrimage as such involves day-long journeys on tour coaches due to vast distances separating them.
Public toilets being virtually non-existent in rustic India, people come back with tales of their experiences, none more amusing and consistent than having to go out in open fields to answer nature's call and, of course, pushy beggars who won't take no for an answer.
These tales, amusing in hindsight, can also be a source of discouragement to prospective pilgrims.
The train option is good news. Most of the travelling is done at night, which means less time spent in tour coaches and more time to admire the holy sites. The time saved leaves you with you enough room to add to your itinerary of lesser-known sites along the routes.
The Mahaparinirvan Express is a special Buddhist tourist train operated by Indian Railways, or more precisely its subsidiary, Indian Railway Catering and Tourism Corps, which has devised an eight-day package that kicks off with a sightseeing tour of New Delhi.
Travellers then board the train at New Delhi's Safdarjung railway station singled out specifically for the purpose. Fully air-conditioned, from there the express train connects travellers to Bodh Gaya, Rajgir, Nalanda, Varanasi, Sarnath, Kushinagar, Lumbini and Sravasti. The last stop on the return leg is Agra, home of the majestic Taj Mahal, before the tour ends where it began, at Safdarjung.
Believe it or not, back in Bangkok what my friends wanted to know about this trip was not about the holy sites but the train service, the toilets, food and personal safety issues!
Here's my report: The train is comfortable and clean. The overall service is excellent. The staff are ever-helpful and courteous. But don't look for luxury. I had my bed done every day with new sheets, pillowcase and towel. I had warm water for a shower. That is already more than I could have asked for on a pilgrimage! I had to learn how to keep my balance in the shower cabin, though. But I found it fun, not troublesome.
The train toilets? They are clean all right, but again don't expect them to be on a par with hotels. An attendant stood by to clean the toilets and shower cabins every time you used them. And don't wait until the end of the trip to give them a tip; do it on the first day. And be nice and polite to the cleaners. Such simple courtesy works wonders.
Is it safe? No need to worry. The train is operated by the business arm of government-run Indian Railways. The trains remain under guard even when their occupants are visiting holy sites during the day or staying overnight in hotels.
The food? The menu is a good mix of Western, Indian and Asian food. We even had hot rice porridge for breakfast! But if you can't do without Thai food, I recommend you take with you some instant noodles, chilli paste and a few packets of your favourite food.
Any trip far from home _ by rail, airplane, car or tour coach _ is bound to have its fair share of annoyances because things will never be what we are accustomed to. But the essence of travel is to keep an open heart to new customs and unfamiliar practices.
In the same vein, the essence of a pilgrimage is not only about performing religious rites or chanting prayers at holy sites to declare one's devotion to a faith. It is about learning to transcend the likes and dislikes and to sustain equanimity in a new environment. It is about showing compassion for people around us. This is like putting the Buddha's teachings into practice, the highest form of respect you could pay to him. This is the true meaning of pilgrimage.
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